From Nepal’s Warm Embrace to India’s Harsh Realities

As the journey departed from Kathmandu on July 3, 2023, it carried not just memories but a profound appreciation for Nepal. The people’s kindness was nothing short of extraordinary. From the tea shop owner to the mechanic, the warmth and humanity experienced were deeply touching. Their genuine hospitality and selflessness created a sense of belonging that made Nepal feel like a second home. This kindness was a bright spot in the journey and a contrast to what awaited in India.

However, the transition from Nepal to India was jarring. The shift from the tranquil landscapes of Nepal to the chaotic and often harsh reality of northern India was evident. Upon reaching the Raxaul border, the initial relief of returning to familiar soil quickly faded. The contrast was immediate and unsettling. The border area, filled with dirt, lorries, and the pervasive spitting of paan, set the stage for what would become a series of distressing encounters. The sense of unity symbolized by the border sign quickly dissolved into a reality that felt oppressive and uncomfortable.

Right after that came the Raxaul railway level crossing that vividly highlighted the shift in experience. As the gates were closed and a dense crowd gathered, the oppressive atmosphere was visible. The crowd's aggressive behavior was evident even before the gates opened. As the wait continued, people pushed and shoved, casting curious and invasive glances. Their curiosity quickly turned into an unsettling invasion of personal space. Belongings were touched, the bike was examined, and the helmet and phone were handled without permission. This invasive scrutiny, combined with the unbearable heat, created a sense of suffocation and anxiety. For a young solo traveler, the feeling of being scrutinized and intruded upon was deeply unsettling, making the environment feel unsafe and unwelcoming.

As the journey continued into Bihar, the contrast between experiences in Nepal and the harsh realities of northern India became even more pronounced. The areas passed through were marked by clusters of huts and a visible presence of weapons, which created a tense atmosphere. These weapons, both displayed openly and implied through local behavior, added to the growing sense of danger. The people encountered, with their large mustaches and chewing paan, seemed to regard with suspicion and hostility. The fear of losing possessions quickly evolved into a more profound fear for safety. The environment felt increasingly threatening, intensifying anxiety with each passing moment.

The situation worsened with unexpected challenges. A phone’s battery, crucial for navigation and communication, was stuck at 2% and refused to charge properly. This technical issue added to growing anxiety, as the phone was a lifeline in case of emergencies. The journey through Bihar felt like a series of trials with obstacles, roadblocks, diversions, and a constant sense of foreboding.

An additional challenge arose when encountering a car displaying political party flags, which was speeding through the narrow roads in a mode of celebration. As the car approached aggressively, maneuvering off the road was necessary to avoid a collision. The car’s reckless driving and complete disregard for right of way served as another reminder of the harsh realities faced. The lack of basic courtesy, combined with the festive but chaotic atmosphere, further amplified the sense of vulnerability and frustration.

Reaching Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh and facing a hotel scam was the final disappointment. Extra charges imposed by the hotel, despite a prior booking through Oyo, echoed a statement heard from a mechanic in Nepal about some negative aspects of interactions in India. This experience further highlighted the differences encountered, leaving a sense of disillusionment. It was a harsh reminder of the discrepancies within the country and a contrast to the genuine warmth experienced in Nepal.

As anxiety grew, questions arose about why the people in Bihar behaved so differently from those in Nepal. Was it a lack of education or exposure? Were there systemic issues or social norms contributing to such behaviors? How did regional disparities and economic conditions influence interactions and attitudes? Did political or historical factors play a role? What impact did local governance and law enforcement have on these interactions? The contrast was evident: where Nepal offered warmth and kindness, Bihar presented an unsettling disregard for basic decency.

This journey revealed how different human experiences can be depending on the location, and this blog captures those contrasts. The reflections on Nepal’s warmth versus Bihar’s harshness highlight how cultural and social factors shape our interactions. Ultimately, the hope is that by sharing these insights, will encourage a broader embrace of kindness and respect, bridging the divisions and fostering a more empathetic world.