Thursday 12 September 2024

A Day in South Mumbai: Rain, Roads, and Discoveries

 

A sudden trip brought me to Mumbai on September 1, 2024. I was excited, brimming with the idea of exploring the city for the very first time. After boarding the plane, I landed around 8:30 PM, already imagining myself diving into the vibrant life of Mumbai the next day. But, as fate would have it, all my dreams of discovering the city were washed away, literally.


The next morning, I woke up to relentless rain. With no vehicle or local guides, I knew this trip might end up being a solo adventure. Yet, the downpour did not let up for five long days. The plans I had meticulously made with friends were all scrapped. Trapped in the Grand Hyatt, a luxurious hotel that had everything, except the joy of exploring Mumbai, I could only sit in my room, disheartened. Despite the five-star comfort, it hurt not to see the city.


Then came day six, the day before my departure. No matter the rain, I decided I would explore at least some parts of the city. The decision was made. I booked a cab, determined to navigate Mumbai on my own terms. Raju Bhaiya, my cab driver was a friendly man from Uttar Pradesh. Our conversations were filled with discussions about politics, his hometown  and even Royal Enfields. We bonded quickly and I told him to take me wherever he thought was best.


The journey started with an hour-long drive toward the Bandra-Worli Sea Link, an architectural marvel that left me in awe. The bridge towering over the sea felt like a monument to human achievement, its construction massive and surreal, even though it’s still incomplete. As we continued, Raju Bhaiya pointed out Dharavi, the sprawling slum immortalized in Rajinikanth's movie Kaala. Seeing it in person was incredible, a mix of familiar movie scenes and the real-life scale of Mumbai’s diversity.


Next up was Antilia, the Ambani residence. I could not help but marvel at the size of it, an entire skyscraper for one family. Raju Bhaiya mentioned how the rich keep getting richer in Mumbai and poor get poorer, but I added, "That is not just Mumbai, it’s the story of India’s so called development."





As we drove through South Mumbai, we passed several colonial-era buildings like the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) building, their architecture still standing strong after all these years. Victoria Terminus, now Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, looked grand, its railway station architecture showcasing Mumbai's blend of history and modernity. We even drove by the iconic Regal Theatre, India’s first air-conditioned cinema. That day, it was showing GOAT, Vijay’s latest blockbuster. Seeing this historic theatre still thriving in the world of multiplexes was an experience in itself.




Finally, we arrived at the Gateway of India. The rain had eased into a drizzle and the crowd was sparse, giving me the perfect opportunity to explore. This majestic archway, built to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary’s visit to India in 1911, stands as a symbol of Mumbai’s colonial past and architectural grandeur. Standing there, with the Arabian Sea behind me and boats bobbing in the water, I soaked in the beauty of the scene.



As I stood near the Gateway of India, something else immediately caught my attention, a gathering of doves right next to the monument. These birds, flying and staying together in synchronized groups, were being fed by passersby and the scene was so serene. It instantly transported me back to a frame from Nayakan, Mani Ratnam’s classic starring Kamal Haasan and Saranya Ponvannan. Seeing something like this, a moment so reminiscent of Tamil cinema, felt soothing to my soul. For a Tamilian, witnessing that familiar cinematic visual in the heart of Mumbai brought an unexpected sense of comfort and nostalgia.


Right after that, I saw a majestic statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji standing tall in front of the Gateway of India. It reminded me that both the airport and the railway station are also named after him, reflecting the deep admiration and respect the people of Mumbai have for Shivaji. His presence is a significant part of the city's identity and seeing that statue made it clear how much he means to the people here.



Just opposite the Gateway of India was the legendary Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. To stand in front of it felt like a dream come true. The Taj is not just a luxury hotel but a symbol of resilience, having withstood the brutal terror attack of 2008. What intrigued me more was the contrast between the two wings of the hotel, the traditional heritage wing and the newer tower wing. I could not help but notice that most tourists were more interested in clicking pictures with the Taj than with the Gateway itself. Such is the allure of this grand hotel.



From there, I headed to Marine Drive, Nariman Point to be specific. Known as the Queen’s Necklace because of its glittering streetlights along the curve of the bay, Marine Drive exuded calm despite the city’s chaos. People sat peacefully along the sea, chatting, dancing, and singing. It felt like a place where life slowed down, where time was measured in the rhythm of the waves. Walking along the promenade was soothing, as if the city's energy was momentarily suspended, and all that mattered was the sound of the sea.


I also passed the Trident Hotel, another site attacked in 2008. Seeing these landmarks, symbols of both opulence and tragedy was overwhelming. Every corner of this part of the city seemed to hold a story.


On the way back, as the rain picked up again, we passed Haji Ali Dargah. This famous mosque, sitting on an islet, was inaccessible that day due to high tides. Despite the weather, I could sense the significance of this sacred place, a blend of spirituality and serenity surrounded by the Arabian Sea.


With the rain growing heavier, we returned to the hotel. I bid farewell to Raju Bhaiya, thanking him for showing me around South Mumbai. The day was a whirlwind, packed with memories I would not soon forget.


Reflecting on the day, I realized something crucial: South Mumbai is not a place to explore solo. To truly enjoy spots like the Gateway of India and Marine Drive, you need company, friends to sit with, chat and soak in the vibe. It’s a place to chill out, have deep conversations and experience the city’s unique energy. So, if you are planning to visit South Mumbai, take someone along. Trust me, it’s worth it.


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