Through Faith and Disillusionment: A trip to Tiruvannamalai

On the early morning of August 18, 2023, I set out on a journey that would transcend mere miles and enter the realms of belief and disillusion. My friend, who was preparing for an important interview, had one request that is to visit the Arunachaleswarar Temple in Tiruvannamalai. Though my own beliefs lean towards atheism, I agreed to accompany him. Sometimes, the act of supporting a person takes Importance over personal convictions.

     We hit the road at around 5 AM, The bike was fueled and ready. The cool, damp air of the morning, still fresh from the previous night’s rain, wrapped around us as we departed from Tambaram. Taking NH44 that went through Melmaruvathur and Tindivanam, covering approximately 165 kilometers. The ride, typically lasting 3 to 3.5 hours, promised to be an adventure under the dawn.

     Our first rest came at a small roadside tea stall about 80 kilometers in. The steaming tea was a simple yet profound comfort against the early morning chill. With renewed energy, we continued, embracing the beauty of the sunrise. As the sky transitioned from blue to purple, then to a gentle orange, the morning unfolded in a breathtaking display of colors. Riding through this natural masterpiece, I felt a rare tranquility, a connection to something greater than the ordinary.

     By 8 AM, we arrived at Tiruvannamalai. As anticipated, the temple was crowded. Finding parking was a challenge until a vendor offered us a spot behind her stall. What initially seemed like an act of kindness soon revealed itself as a calculated move. She insisted we purchase two “Archanai Thattu” which is a plate with bananas, coconut, and flowers for 100 rupees each. Although hesitant, we accepted the plate, seeing it as necessary for the temple visit. We left our footwears along with the bike.

     As we approached the temple, we were greeted by the imposing Rajagopuram, the temple’s monumental tower. Its grandeur left us in awe, a testament to the temple’s rich history and architectural marvel. Walking through this Arch, we felt a huge shift in the atmosphere, an air filled with devotion, hope, and numerous human experiences.

Inside the temple, we encountered a vibrant blend of life: children darting about with carefree joy, the elderly seated in quiet contemplation, and the anxious middle-aged lost in fervent prayers. Each person seemed to find their own sense of hope and solace within these sacred walls, creating a dynamic yet harmonious atmosphere.

Our visit took a stirring turn when, we had to pay an additional 50 rupees for a special worship using the "Archanai thattu". The queue to enter the inner sanctum moved slowly, but the real surprise came when, unexpectedly, a man who didn’t quite fit the image of a traditional priest approached us. With a handful of holy ash, he gave us a blessing without a word. His sudden appearance and departure were surreal, adding a touch of the divine to our experience.

     However, not all aspects of the temple were inspiring. At another section, a priest’s greed overshadowed the sacredness of the space. Demanding money before handing out prasadham (holy ashes), he treated worshippers with contempt. Witnessing him deny a poor man’s request for a pinch of ash unless money was given was a stark reminder of how commercialism can tarnish spiritual sanctuaries.

     Disheartened by this encounter, we left the temple with mixed feelings. While the beauty and occasional acts of kindness left a mark, the greed of a few soured the experience. As we retrieved our bike and departed, I couldn’t help but reflect on the contrast of the day, a journey that began with serene beauty but ended with a sobering reminder of human frailty within places considered sacred.

In the end, the trip to Arunachaleswarar Temple was an emotional journey marked by both wonder and disillusionment. It pushed the boundaries of my perceptions, revealing the intricate layers of sacred spaces. The experience wove together moments of awe with stark realities, leaving me with a profound sense of both inspiration and frustration. Despite the setbacks, it reaffirmed that spirituality is as varied and unpredictable as the people who seek it. This trip not only challenged my views but also deepened my understanding of the complexity between faith and human nature.